Zon’s, a small restaurant in Jamaica Plain’s Hyde Square, bills itself as gourmet comfort food. If that seems a contradiction in terms, you don’t spend much time in JP. The appeal of nice dinner out in a place that’s not intimidating or too expensive captures the ethos of the bohemian bourgeoisie perfectly. It’s dress-down fancy.

Zon’s pulls it off, fortunately. Eat and Destroy has a review of the food, but after a recent visit I thought I should mention that its bar itself is unfairly overlooked in a part of the city where Irish pubs are thick on the ground but where there are few other drinking holes. It’s a small space and the bar section is even smaller, but even on a Thursday night it wasn’t crowded and my friends and I were able to snag seats at a prime hour.

They do not have a full liquor license and instead are limited to cordials and sweetened liqueurs. Amazingly, given the limitations, they’ve been able to craft an appealing cocktail menu. It gave me a chance to imbibe sloe gin, which I’ve not had in years. The Charlie Chaplin cocktail was a nice after-dinner drink, sweet and fruity but an unexpected combination all the same. I haven’t tested the recipe out at home, but guides list the following:

Charlie Chaplin

1 jigger sloe gin
1 jigger apricot brandy
1 jigger lemon juice

Shake and pour into an old fashioned glass, garnished with lime.

And of course, instead of a cocktail you can always take one of their cordials neat or on the rocks.

Their beer selection was limited, but a seasonal Harpoon hit the spot. The wine selection seemed fuller. The bar staff were unfussy, friendly and capable. Definitely one to add to the mental rolodex of places to go for a nightcap, digestif, or even a glass of beer in a place that doesn’t smell like what you’re drinking.

Zon’s is located at 2 Perkins Street at Centre St. in Jamaica Plain, near the 39 bus.