There are two important things to note about maraschino liqueur.

First, while etymologically related to maraschino cherries, it doesn’t taste anything like the waxy garnish or even like cherries. It’s made from the fruit and pits of marasca cherries grown along the Adriatic coast. While once very popular, far less is made and distributed today: Italy’s Luxardo is a standard and particularly good brand.

Second, its distinctively-scented almondy-half-bitterness is an acquired taste, and hard to describe, though definitely worth the effort to acquire. Maraschino is dry and sophisticated – a nice break from more common, sweeter liqueurs. It also mixes well: open any older (pre-1950) cocktail book and you’ll be amazed just how many cocktails call for maraschino liqueur. It adds a complexity that fell out of favor in the postwar years, but one worth adding back to cocktails.

How does one serve maraschino liqueur? My favorite way is on the rocks with a generous squeeze of lemon to tame the spirit’s assertiveness. Weirdly enough, the lemon brings forth the underlying cherry flavor. Add a slim twist of lemon peel if serving for company and you have a perfect apéritif or digestif. It’s particularly nice for these almost spring days when you want something fresh-tasting yet when breaking out the rum or the Campari feels like pushing the season.

Alternately, if you’re looking for a cocktail to foreground maraschino’s distinctive taste, try the Aviation cocktail:

2 jiggers gin
1 jigger maraschino liqueur
1 jigger lemon juice

Shake and strain into a well-chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with a lemon twist or cherry. For you gin-haters, vodka can be substituted, further foregrounding the maraschino flavor.

Luxardo can be found at Marty’s, Mall Discount Fresh Pond and better-stocked liquor stores. Retail runs about $28 a bottle.