Margaritas are nearly as wonderful straight up as they are on the rocks. They’re even better if you make them with sour oranges. I know that I’ve been talking up various knotty, dirty looking exotic citrus fruits you find at hispanic markets. Sour oranges – or naranja agria – are worth seeking out. They’re the traditional bitter oranges used in making orange bitters (not to mention orange marmalade), and they have a nice tartness, like a lemon or lime, with a floral orange taste instead. They really shine in cocktails, and in particular the sour orange margarita is probably the only cocktail I can claim some originality in inventing. (Perhaps recreating the wheel someone else invented?) To this day, it’s my favorite summer cocktail.

It’s a simple variation. A straight-up margarita is just juice of a lime, a good portion of tequila and quality orange liqueur, maybe with a heaping teaspoon of sugar to take the bite off. Substitute sour orange juice, decrease the sugar, and trust me, you’ll have a crowd-pleaser. It’s a good occasion to wheel out a better than average tequila.

Sour Orange Margarita
Makes 2 cocktails in 5 oz. martini glasses

Juice of two sour oranges (or more if the oranges is not very juicy)
Few generous dashes simple sugar syrup, or heaping teaspoons sugar
4 jiggers (6 oz.) tequila, mid-shelf or better
1 jigger (1 1/2 oz.) Grand Marnier, Cointreau or good quality curaçao
Orange twist, for garnish, optional

Chill cocktail glasses. In cocktail shaker, add ice, then the main ingredients listed. Shake thoroughly to mix and chill. Pour into glasses and garnish.

Oh, and if you’re not a tequila fan, try an aged rum, like a nice oaky Jamaican rum. The resulting daiquiris, if untraditional, are just as good.

Sour oranges available at Hi-Lo in Jamaica Plain and at fruit stands near Jackson Square.