June 4th, 2006

Elephant and Castle

Posted by The Home Bartender in Bars

This ersatz English pub is odd at best. It’s ye-olde-England meets fern bar, a feeling not helped by the unwatched Arsenal matches on the TV or the deceptively cavernous dimensions of the place. On top of it all is the stranded feeling of the Financial District location, which thins out the crowd after the post-work drink hour and means that Elephant and Castle close shockingly early (midnight).

But there is one overriding reason to check out this place. It’s the only place I know in town that has Fuller’s on tap. A nice, full-flavored bitter ale, Fullers made a logical libation for the rainy weekend. Besides, it’s a great accompaniment to the deep-friend soft pretzels the bar serves.

May 25th, 2006

Proper Gimlet

Posted by The Home Bartender in Miscellaneous, Classic Cocktails, Gin Drinks, Bars

This last weekend I headed over to dBar, a newish gay bar in Dorchester. I’d recommend it to those who haven’t gone – it has a nice neighborhood restaurant meets city lounge kind of feel. It’s nice to see owners putting thought into the design of a bar (even if that means leaving the woodwork from the former steakhouse), and hosts actually being friendly.

Drinks are big city prices, a pint five dollars and my not-terribly-high-shelf cocktail nine dollars. I can’t say I’m overly wowed with the bartending. Inexplicably the wheat beer had an orange wheel instead of a lemon wedge in it. And after having a frosty cold martini at DeLux,, my gimlet at dBar seemed downright tepid and uninspiring.

The thing worth noting is that like many these days, they squeezed fresh lime juice into my gimlet. I can’t say this is categorically wrong, but I’m convinced that the people who do it aren’t big gimlet fans. There’s something magical about the mutual bracing qualities of gin and Rose’s lime, and the real lime breaks the spell.

For what it’s worth, here’s one definitive statement, from Terry Malloy in Raymond Chandler’s The Long Goodbye:

“They don’t know how to make them here,” he said. “What they call a gimlet is just some lime or lemon juice and gin with a dash of sugar and bitters. A real gimlet is half gin and half Rose’s Lime Juice and nothing else. It beats martinis hollow.” (19)

I’m not a full traditionalist, and I find that a 4:1 ratio is much more suited to modern tastes than a 1:1 ratio. (You see a similar rebalancing in the stalwart martini.) Here’s how I make them:

Gimlet

2 jiggers dry gin
1/2 jigger Rose’s lime juice

Shake well in a cocktail shaker. If serving straight up, strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with thin sliver of lime floating on to. If serving on the rocks, strain into a rocks glass with ice and garnish with lime wedge on rim.

Like martinis, gimlets really are best very cold. Can they be made with vodka? Sure, but I’m not clear what the point would be.

May 20th, 2006

Cheapest Martini in Town?

Posted by The Home Bartender in Bars

Perhaps I’ve found the cheapest cocktail in town, perhaps not, but after the reviews of fancypuss bars, I decided to head to Delux for a decent, well-priced drink. The place was long one of my favorite places in town, but the affordable pints ($3.75) meant I didn’t ever think of ordering cocktails.

Turns out they do a credible job. My martini could have had more vermouth – hell, any vermouth – but it was ice cold, served in a properly chilled glass and garnished with two plump, tasty olives. Made with Tanqueray, it cost five dollars.

It’s been a couple of years since I’ve gone, and the place is both changed and exactly the same. The clientele, once mixed, is now completely straight, and on this Friday night it looked like the spillover from some gross Upper East Side bar was bussed in. Or maybe that’s just Boston in general. On the upside, while formerly packed to the gills, there was surprisingly plenty of room on a weekend night.

However the cozy rock-n-roller atmosphere is just the same – same record covers on the wall, same Cartoon Network playing on the TV screen. And the pints still $3.75. Bully for them.

Delux Cafe is located at 100 Chandler Street (at Clarendon) in the South End.

April 13th, 2006

B-Side Lounge

Posted by The Home Bartender in Bars

As of yesterday I’m a year older and wiser, and my friends were kind enough to treat me to birthday drinks last night at the B-Side Lounge in Cambridge. It’s been open for a good while, and it’s a place people have always been telling me I need to go to - but it was my first time there. It won’t be the last. It should be the destination of anyone who likes fine cocktails done right.

The drinks menu runs the gamut from revived vintage cocktails to their own inventions. Their martinis were excellent, the sidecars not weird (this is the chanciest drink to order out), but the winner for me was a drink called the Last Word, a combination of gin, Chartreuse, maraschino liqueur and lime juice. It was one of the best cocktails I’ve ordered out. The bar staff are professional: after he noticed a stray bit of mint when pouring a sidecar, our bartender whisked away the drink and made a new one from scratch. The prices are reasonable, 8 dollars for most cocktails. The only negative was that the music played a smidge too loud; it was like they were trying too hard to play up the rock-and-roll diner theme. They should just let the drinks speak for themselves.

B-Side Lounge is located at 92 Hampshire Street, Cambridge, between Kendall, Inman, and Central squares.

March 30th, 2006

Les Zygomates

Posted by The Home Bartender in Bars

It’s been at least a year since I’ve been to the Leather District, that narrow area Downtown wedged South Station and Chinatown. I was surprised to see how tony the area is becoming, with bistros here and there and well-manicured buildings. French restaurant Les Zygomates has been there many years, since 1994, before the post-Big-Dig facelift. Somehow I’ve never managed to go until recently.

The big plus about this place is that it manages to seem nice without being oppressively posh, trendy or stuffy. It’s a relaxed wine-bar and restaurant, with tiled floor, nickel fixtures, black-lacquered wood… essentially that 1920s “bistro” look. And though it’s also a restaurant, the bar space in the front is big enough to be inviting for those simply seeking a drink. The bar devotes more space to the wine than it does to the liquor, which means their selection is decent but limited. Still, my martini was well-executed and, a big plus, had the best olives I’ve ever had in a drink, olives you wouldn’t be embarrased to serve as an appetizer. Frankly, I’ve never considered using anything but the basic bottled Goya cocktail olives when making martinis at home, but now I’ve changed my mind. They were a nice touch.

I could have stood with more inspired beer options; the Kronenberg 1664 is authentically French bar fare, but a quality Belgian ale on tap would have gone a long way to make their offering seem special, not pedestrian.

The Man paid for this trip, so I didn’t get a gander at the check. I imagine it was it hefty enough, though.

Les Zygomates is located at 129 South Street, two blocks from South Station.

March 16th, 2006

Vinalia

Posted by The Home Bartender in Bars

I should have been put off by the trying-too-hard-trendy cobalt blue lighting banks or the fact that every server was a twenty-something, buxom blonde – this place couldn’t be about the drinks, could it? But what kept me soldiering on was my quest to find a nice downtown bar free from the Young Professional Meat Market Syndrome (YPMMS) that afflicts such establishments like the Rack, Silvertones or McFadden’s. Thankfully, Vinalia, wedged in between Downtown Crossing and the Financial District on Arch/Summer Streets, fit the bill on that score. The suit-and-tie/Ann Taylor crowd were mostly there to socialize with friends after work, not pose and flirt.

Vinalia bills itself a wine bar, but most people were drinking cocktails during the after-work hour. Which is surprising because the cocktails were awful. My friend’s Maker’s Mark manhattan was suitably done, though watered down enough to make us suspect they use wet, crushed ice rather than “aged” ice appropriate for cocktails. The bartender didn’t know how to make a Between the Sheets, so I opted for a standard Sidecar. Or standard, so I thought. What came was sweet and clear. I’ve seen varied recipes for sidecars, and brandies of varying darkness. But none clear. Brandy had been nowhere near this. A look at the check revealed that they’d made it with Hendrick’s Gin! It was the most disgusting cocktail I remember having in a long time. I might have considered sending it back or at least drawing attention to it, but our waitress was providing such lackluster service, we decided just to cut our losses.

Vinalia needs to learn that a) there are plenty of non-blonde people worth hiring and b) they need to hire someone who knows how to make drinks.

Vinalia is located inside the 101 Arch Street building (second floor), between Arch and Summer Streets downtown.