Margaritas are nearly as wonderful straight up as they are on the rocks. They’re even better if you make them with sour oranges. I know that I’ve been talking up various knotty, dirty looking exotic citrus fruits you find at hispanic markets. Sour oranges – or naranja agria – are worth seeking out. They’re the traditional bitter oranges used in making orange bitters (not to mention orange marmalade), and they have a nice tartness, like a lemon or lime, with a floral orange taste instead. They really shine in cocktails, and in particular the sour orange margarita is probably the only cocktail I can claim some originality in inventing. (Perhaps recreating the wheel someone else invented?) To this day, it’s my favorite summer cocktail.

It’s a simple variation. A straight-up margarita is just juice of a lime, a good portion of tequila and quality orange liqueur, maybe with a heaping teaspoon of sugar to take the bite off. Substitute sour orange juice, decrease the sugar, and trust me, you’ll have a crowd-pleaser. It’s a good occasion to wheel out a better than average tequila.

Sour Orange Margarita
Makes 2 cocktails in 5 oz. martini glasses

Juice of two sour oranges (or more if the oranges is not very juicy)
Few generous dashes simple sugar syrup, or heaping teaspoons sugar
4 jiggers (6 oz.) tequila, mid-shelf or better
1 jigger (1 1/2 oz.) Grand Marnier, Cointreau or good quality curaçao
Orange twist, for garnish, optional

Chill cocktail glasses. In cocktail shaker, add ice, then the main ingredients listed. Shake thoroughly to mix and chill. Pour into glasses and garnish.

Oh, and if you’re not a tequila fan, try an aged rum, like a nice oaky Jamaican rum. The resulting daiquiris, if untraditional, are just as good.

Sour oranges available at Hi-Lo in Jamaica Plain and at fruit stands near Jackson Square.

Having friends over yesterday evening, I wondered what I’d serve. I wanted something nice and refreshing, given the summer weather we’re having. I decided on a perennial favorite of mine, margaritas.

I tend to think of the margarita as one of two drinks. The first, is the traditional limeade-y mixed drink served on the rocks in sombrero-shaped margarita glasses. The second is a stronger cocktail version served straight up in a cocktail glass. I like both, but since the former is most people’s idea of a margarita let me start there.

For a well-made traditional Tex-Mex margarita, I’m not a purist about type of tequila (one can spend lots of money, if one wants, but Cuervo or Sauza Gold are fine with me), but I insist that the drink be made with fresh lime juice. Like I’ve said, making a margarita with sour mix is like making a screwdriver with Tang. Squeezing the limes means a bit more work, but the difference is immeasurable. It’ll take a lot of limes, too, maybe 10 or more for a pitcher, so find an affordable source. I get mine either at Hispanic markets/produce stands, at Chinatown, or at Haymarket, where you can get ten for a dollar instead of one for 75 cents.

The recipe I use is adapted from a Rick Bayless recipe. The trick is soaking the ingredients with lime zest (see photo), which gives a nice depth of flavor. His recipe is quite strong, so I highly recommend taking my proportions (which have half the alcohol), if you don’t want to be knocked on your ass. Trust me on this.

Margaritas on the Rocks
Adapted from Rick Bayless’s Mexican Kitchen
makes one pitcher (8 cups)

2 1/2 c. tequila
1/2 c. Grand Marnier
1 1/2 c. (heaping) fresh lime juice
grated zest of 4 limes
1 c. sugar
3 c. water
Lime wedges, garnish
Coarse salt (I use kosher salt) for rims

In a large non-metal bowl, combine all ingredients except garnish and stir to dissolve sugar. Cover and refrigerate for a few hours to steep. Strain into serving pitcher. The margaritas are ready to serve on the rocks, in glasses rimmed with salt, as your guests desire.

Can you use Cointreau or an other orange liqueur? Certainly, and I often do depending on what I have available, but I think the brandy notes of the Grand Marnier work best. In any case, stick to the twenty-dollar a bottle rule and avoid the cheap triple sec if you can.

The homemade version of the margarita, done right, is such a wonderful, sublime drink that it puts to shame much of what Boston bars and restaurants serve under the name. In fact, I almost never order the drink out.